Do not miss seeing Theth in Albania
Theth Church, Theth, Albania (ISO 200, 4.5 mm, f/2.8, 1/40 s)
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When doing our trip research for Albania, we knew we had to spend some time in Theth. Located about 2 hours from the larger city of Shkodër in Northern Albania, it is a Protected Historical Center, a moniker given by the Albanian government.
It was thought that the community of Theth was descendant from a common ancestor named Ded Nika. The reason for the community’s relocation to Theth 300 years ago was for preservation of their Catholic traditions. This makes sense considering the distance Theth is from other cities as well as the isolation you receive while living in the Theth valley.
The tourist infrastructure in the area is barely existent but this will change in the coming years. Up until 2023, there was only a dirt road that led to the village, now that road is paved and takes you right to the center of Theth. Much work has and will also be done to mark trails in the area since it is most known for its scenery and great hiking.
I would recommend seeing Theth in the next few years where the improving infrastructure will be a blessing and the tourist numbers will still be quite low. Nonetheless, this is a blog post on what we did and saw in Theth. This list is not comprehensive but should give you an idea of what to expect from this village.
Check out my drone video of Theth, Albania below!
How to get to Theth
To get to Theth, first you need a flight to get you into Albania. The best airport to fly into would have to be from Tirana International Airport (TIA). The airport is the largest in Albania with many rental car agencies servicing it.
Once in Albania, there are just a few ways one can get to Theth, either by bus, taxi, or rental car. For us, we rented a car for a week from Tirana International Airport. Theth sits in the north of Albania, however with no direct roads leading to it. Since Theth is a very small village with not much infrastructure, there isn’t much public transport going to it either.
If you are unable to rent a car, your best bet is to take a bus from Tirana to Shkodër first. To grab one of these buses, you need to make your way to the Tirana Region bus terminal (Google map of location here), located 20 mins from the center of Tirana. Then you can look up bus times here for direct buses to Shkodër which will take about 2 hours and cost 400 Lek. There are numerous departures daily. A taxi from Tirana to Shkodër will run you about 75 Euros.
Once in Shkodër, you can find minibus tours that take you to the small village of Theth. Oftentimes these tours will have a few spots in Theth they will take you to which is nice, but if you want to go at your own pace, a rental car is where it’s at.
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Here are some of the best places to see in and around Theth:
Blue Eye
The Blue Eye near the village of Kaprre is probably the most well known attraction in Theth. It is part of the Thethi National Park and is essentially a well of 100 square meters and about 5 meters deep. The water source is from the Black River which means it is COLD! We came here on a hot summer day so the water temperature wasn’t so bad. Nonetheless, what is perhaps most striking is the blue and emerald color of the water. The landscape itself is also very serene as it is far away from any road and the area has not been built up at all.
It is 7 kilometers away from the village itself and up until recently, you had to hike the entire way to get to the Blue Eye. They have recently built a paved road leading you to a parking area, that enables you to hike for just 30 minutes.
Theth Church
Such a small and unimposing structure, this church sits majestically in the middle of the valley. It was built in 1892 by the first inhabitants of Theth as a Roman Catholic church. A priest of the church was Father Shtjefen Gjecovi, who also opened a school in Theth, teaching children how to become literate in Albanian. Luckily, the church has survived the Communist movement in Albania and continues to be an incredible landmark in Theth. We came here during Golden Hour, after our trip to the Blue Eye and it was amazing. So serene and chill without hordes of tourists.
(ISO 200, 4.5 mm, f/2.8, 1/40 s)
Grunasi Waterfall
The Grunasi Waterfall is located within the confines of Thethi National Park and was declared a national monument in 2002. The falls are at a height of 25 meters and takes less than an hour to reach from the center of Theth (by walking). The hike starts off quite easily but gets a little trickier as you go on. The walk itself is gorgeous though as you are surrounded by amazing nature and wonderful landscapes.
Grunas Canyon
The Grunas Canyon is composed of large rock formations with a network that is 2 kilometers long and about 60 meters deep. The canyon can be anywhere from 2-40 meters wide in specific locations. The popular thing to do here is to canoe or kayak through the canyon, getting up close and personal with the walls. Visits to the canyon alone though are not recommended so be sure to book a tour with a local agency that can show you the way and keep you safe.
(ISO 100, 4.5 mm, f/2.8, 1/60 s)
Valbona Pass
For hiking enthusiasts, hiking the Valbona Pass is one of the most rewarding things you can do while in Albania. You can start the hike either in Theth or Valbona but people usually start in Valbona.
If you are staying in Shkodër, you can often reserve transport that will take you to Valbona to start. This transport option will involve an early morning (think 6 am) bus ride to Lake Koman, then a ferry to Fierza, and then another bus to reach Valbona. People can then elect to stay in Valbona to start their hike the next day, or start right away.
The hike itself is 9.5 kilometers long with an elevation range of 800 to 1815 meters. For some, the hike takes about 6 hours depending on your level of fitness. The great thing is, the hiking trail is very well marked with white and red lines and with periods of sudden elevation changes, most of the hike is very enjoyable and not so grueling.
PROTIP: the path is closed between November and May but the best time to go would be October. You avoid more of the crowds and get great views of the changing fall foliage. Once back in Theth, you can arrange transport back to Shkodër if you haven’t done so already.
(ISO 200, 4.5 mm, f/2.8, 1/40 s)
Theth Village
As for the village of Theth itself, you must keep in mind that up until recently, it was very much isolated. With infrastructure projects being implemented to build new roads and create better conditions for visiting tourists and locals alike, more time is needed to develop the area. Nonetheless, Theth village is a handful of buildings, some restaurants and guesthouses that dot the landscape. You are sitting in the valley among the Shala mountains so it is more about the solitude here rather than landmarks to see, with the exception of Theth Church.
(ISO 400, 4.5 mm, f/2.8, 1/40 s)
Komani Lake
Komani Lake is quite the popular attraction to see while in Northern Albania. The ferry from Fierza goes to Komani daily and you can find tour operators advertising such adventures from Shkodër as well. Nonetheless, the lake is actually a reservoir, nestled between massive forests on vertical slopes. The gorges that sit on this lake are gorgeous with some portions being about 50 meters wide.
(ISO 200, 4.5 mm, f/2.8, 1/40 s)
This blog post highlights some of the main attractions to see while in Theth but the list I have presented to you is by no means comprehensive. Driving to Theth from Shkodër will take a good two hours one way so if you want to see and do all the things I have listed, it is best to book a night’s stay in Theth, otherwise you will face a very long and tired drive back to Shkodër.
This portion of our road trip took us from Tirana to Shkoder, and then to Theth. After this, we ventured way way South back through Tirana, then to Vlorë, Berat, and Borsh, where we stayed a few days for some beach time.
If you intend on doing the same route, I also recommend checking out Gjirokaster while on your way south. Both Berat and Gjirokaster are UNESCO World Heritage Sites so are worth checking out on their own.
If you would like to read more about our time in Shkodër, check out the blog post here. You can also read more about our entire road trip through Albania with blog posts describing what things to see and do in each town. Enjoy!
